R a m s g a t e
The Wine List
The wines on our list have all been chosen to reflect our belief in modern wine making. We believe that the best wine makers all seek to achieve three things:
1. Express the terroir of the places where they work. A New Zealand Sauvignon should not seek to taste like Sancerre, an Australian Pinot should not mimic Burgundy. Many of our wines have an interesting history and we have mentioned some of them in the notes.
2. Deliver the flavours of the fermented fruit cleanly, without faults or excessive manipulation.
3. Show vibrancy – the quality of the acidity in modern wines that gives them a liveliness that all too often was hard to find a few years ago.
We are proud of all the wines on our list, from the house wines to the most expensive. There is not one that we do not enjoy drinking ourselves. The notes that we have added are intended to be descriptive and to add to your enjoyment. One word of caution: modern wines are in some cases significantly more alcoholic than their traditional counterparts. Some on our list are over 14o and one is 16o. To assist you we have noted the alcohol in each case.
We will be delighted to decant any wine if you wish. In a couple of places we have pointed out that some wines seem to us to be at a stage where they will benefit, either from the extra aeration or to take the wine off the sediment, but this is entirely a question of taste.
Sparkling Wine and Champagne
125ml 175ml 750ml
Ca’ Morlin Prosecco £4.50 £ 6.00 £24.00
Prosecco is the sparkling wine of choice in Venice. This is a high quality version, fresh, fruity but with the characteristic hints of almonds. 11%
Jules Feraud Champagne £7.00 £ 8.00 £38.00
Our house Champagne is powerful but elegant; strong bodied and dry yet well-balanced. 12%
Jules Feraud Champagne Rosé £8.00 £11.00 £46.00
Made in a robust fruity style, our house pink Champagne is very drinkable with soft acidity and attractive floral tones. 12%
Veuve Cliquot N.V Brut £57.00
Philippe Cliquot started this Grand Marque in 1772 and regularly exported to America, but La Veuve, who is responsible for all Champagne being referred to as The Widow, was his daughter-in-law Nicole Ponsardin. She built an enormous trade with Russia, where they liked it full-bodied and sweet. Today it is long and creamy with a delicious crisp acidity. Excellent on its own or with fish. 12%
Heidsieck & Co, Monopole Brut £59.00
An American tasting note on what was the official Champagne on the Titanic:
“Elegant and expressive, this delivers floral, pear and toffee flavors matched to a creamy texture. Beautifully integrated, this lingers nicely on the mineral finish. Drink now through 2010.” —
Bruce Sanderson, October 15, 2007, Wine Spectator 91 points. We think it drinks quite well too. 12%
Bollinger N.V. Brut £64.00
This is Champagne for the English palate: dominated by Pinot Noir. Long before Ab Fab made “Bolly” the cliché tipple of high fashion, the owner Madame Lily Bollinger was asked when she drank it:
"I drink it when I’m happy and when I’m sad. Sometimes I drink it when I’m alone. When I have company I consider it obligatory. I trifle with it if I’m not hungry and I drink it when I am. Otherwise I never touch it, unless I’m thirsty.”
If none of these applies you’d better order something else. 12%
Laurent-Perrier Rosé £69.00
This is one of the few pink Champagnes made by leaving the fermenting juice to rest on the skins to absorb the colour of the Pinot Noir. It has intense soft fruit character on the nose and a rich palate. Goes well on its own or with poultry. 12%
White Wine
1. l’Église Grenache Blanc-Chardonnay 2007 £3.50 £13.60
The house white is the most important wine on any list, and ours is delicious. It comes from the Languedoc in south-west France. Made with ultra-modern techniques from the local Grenache which is light, crisp and floral, it is blended with the Chardonnay of Burgundy to give a bit more richness. 13.5%
2. Ponte Pietre Trebbiano Garganega 2008 £4.00 £15.60
Made by New Zealand winemaker Matt Thompson, this wine from the Veneto in north-east Italy provides a little bit more weight. Crisp, fresh fruit and a zesty finish 12%
3. Calbuco Sémillon Chardonnay 2007 £4.20 £16.70 This is a blend of grapes grown classically in Bordeaux and Burgundy, which have both adapted to New World conditions. This version from Chile’s Central Valley shows a light lemon yellow colour with hints of ripe melon on the nose and a citrus tang to lift it on the finish. Excellent with fish or chicken. 13%
4. Domaine De Saint-Lannes 2008 £4.40 £17.50
At Lagraulet, a small town in the Gers Departement, Michel Duffour makes this modern style Cote de Gascogne out of 80% Colombard with a bit of Ugni Blanc and Gros Manseng. A lovely herby nose with notes of melon, clean, pure flavours of citrus fruit on the palate and a pleasingly dry finish.12%
5. Marquis de Salses Viognier 2006 £4.40 £17.50
The grape of Condrieu is hard to find at a recession-friendly price without being fat and oily. This version form the far south-west of France exhibits the usual hints of roses and violets on the nose, a low acidity on the palate, but a hint of structure as well. 13%
6. Borgo dei Vassalli Pinot Grigio 2008 £5.70 £22.50
At the moment every wine list ought to have a Pinot Grigio from north-east Italy. Here the aromatic grape known as Pinot Gris in Alsace makes a wine of enormous charm and often a lot of interest as well. This version is made by the Lorenzon family with some help from New Zealander Matt Thompson in the Friuli, just north of Venice. 13%
7. Sangoma Chenin Blanc 2008 £18.60
Just as the Sémillon grape of Bordeaux seems a natural in most of Australia, the Chenin Blanc that dominates the middle Loire such as Vouvray has become the instinctive first choice for many South African growers and their customers. The cool fermentation catches the lively apple characters in this version from Durbanville just east of Cape Town where it catches the cool air from the Atlantic side of the Cape.12.5%
8. Liberty Wines Redfin Chardonnay 2005 £17.95
We had to have a South Australian Chardonnay and this is a gorgeous version for the price. A touch of oak, and a nice acid lift the rich tropical fruit character. 13.5%
9.Las Rocas Macabeo 2007 £18.00
This crisp wine made from a local varietal at Calatayud near Zaragoza, Aragon typifies modern Spanish wine making. It has a citrus character and delicious flavours of melon and mango. 13.5%
10. Martin Codax Albariňo 2007 £22.50
Named after a 13th century troubadour, this is a very modern style of wine from Rias Baixas in Galicia, the coastal area in far north-west of Spain, where the thick-skinned Albarino grape resists the damp air. It is a light, crisp and delicious aromatic wine. 12.5%
11.Tinpot Hut Sauvignon Blanc 2008 £24.50
2008 was a difficult year for Marlborough, although Tinpot Hut demonstrated why it has become one of the established favourites. Thanks to the hard work of viniculteur Fiona Turner, they managed to produce a very successful Sauvignon Blanc. The wine has depth and intensity with a tropical fruit note on the nose that is leavened by a lovely minerality on the palate. Perfect with fish.13%
12. Turkheimer Gewurtztraminer 2006 £25.00
13. Cave de Hunawihr Gewurztraminer Reserve 2005 £25.50
The marvellous spicy floral nose and slightly sour grapefruit and lychee flavours of good Alsatian Gewurtztraminers are consistently fascinating. We cannot decide which of these two wines we prefer: both are excellent village wines from fine recent vintages and go with almost any food. Both at 13%
14. Plantagenet Great Southern Riesling 2007 £26.50
The cool climate Riesling’s of Mount Barker in the far south of Western Australia have been acknowledged since the 80’s when Michelton used to ship the fruit 2,000 miles across the Nulabor Plain in refrigerated trains to make wine in Victoria. This one is harvested at night and then cold fermented to preserve the spicey floral character of the fruit. Winemaker John Durham’s first vintage shows the hints of racy fruitiness you associate with the grape held together with a crisp citrus acidity. 12%
15. Macon Peronne, Jaffelin, Burgundy 2006 £27.50
Our first white Burgundy is made by Jean-Claude Boisset with grapes from Macon, just south of the Cote d’Or. It is clean, well-made and an excellent accompaniment for any fish. 13%
16. Vina Izadi Rioja Blanco 2007 £29.00
This is great stuff. 80% Viura and 20% Malvasia fermented in new American oak. Whereas old style white Rioja was often dull and faulty wine, this is crisp and lively. It has a fascinating nose and real regional character. 13%
17. Domaine Bernard Moreau Bourgogne Blanc 2006 £29.75
Proper white burgundy made by a small grower in Chassagne. We think this is excellent value. 13.5%
18. Domaine Sautereau Sancerre 2007 £32.00
Classy Sauvignon Blanc from a 19 hectare estate at Crézancy-en-Sancerre that has been run by the same family for nine generations. David Sautereau is a modern winemaker and it shows in this crisp wine full of the gooseberries and complex long flavours that characterise the best versions of this wine – miles away from the modish mass-produced clichés that sometimes masquerade under the area name. 12.5%
19. La Giustiniana Gavi di Gavi 2007 £39.00
This is a really stylish unoaked aromatic wine from Piedmont in north-west Italy. It is exceptionally well-made by Enrico Tomalino and shows what an interesting wine Gavi can be in the right hands. 12.5%
20. Domaine Corinne Perchaud Chablis 2006 £39.00
Corinne Perchaud and her husband Jean-Pierre Grossot are the third generation of winemakers at this family estate in the village of Fleys. Well-made unoaked clean village Chablis with intense varietal character and some length. 13%
21. Riesling Domaine Kientzler 2004 £35.00
Andre Kientzler is the fifth generation of winemakers in the picture-book village of Ribeauvillé. He has taken the reputation of the firm to new heights with the crisp minerality and lovely structure of his wines. This village Riesling from an exceptional vintage is now starting to reveal the complex petrol-like aromas that make mature Alsatian Riesling so fascinating.
22. Geoffrey Grosset Picadilly Chardonnay 2006 £42.00
Top quality young Chardonnay from a world famous South Australian winemaker made in the coolness of the Adelaide Hills. Clean beautiful fruit. Immense length. Outstanding wine. 14%
23. Bernard Moreau St Aubin Premier Cru sur Gamay 2006 £45.00
Delicious young white Burgundy. To find wine of this quality at this sort of price is unusual – and unlikely to be repeated when we re-buy with deflated pounds. Enjoy whilst you can the complex flavours of high quality fruit made by an excellent winemaker. 13.5%
24. Chassagne-Montrachet Domaine Bernard Moreau 2006 £60.00
Alex Moreau took over the winemaking five years ago. He has now found his own expression, combining minerality with excellent fruit and early accessibility. This is classy stuff and highly recommended.
25. Jean-Claude Boisset Meursault Le Limozin 2006 £62.00
Boisset’s wines are now made by Grégory Patriat who aims at a mineral style. The nose is open, clean and interesting. On the palate it is long – there is good acidity and structure to go with intense fruit. It is well worth decanting. 13.5%
25. Riesling Domaine Kientzler Geisberg Grand Cru AC 2004 £62.00
This extraordinary wine is just beginning to reveal its potential. Geisberg is one of the steepest Grand Crus in the Ribeauville area – it is so steeply terraced that machines cannot be used to tend the vines that are now 40-50 years old. The result is a wine of enormous intensity and length. We would decant it.
Rosé wines
175ml 750ml
‘R’ Rosato, Alpha Zeta, Veneto Italy 2008 £4.00 £17.10
Another instance of Allegrini working with New World modern influence from Matt Thompson, this is a lovely bright rosato, with a cherry nose and clean lively acidity. A really cheerful wine.12%
Cuvée Isidora Vin de Pays des Coteaux de l’Ardèche £5.20 £20.00
This Rosé is a blend of Syrah, Grenach, Merlot and Cinsault, nicely balanced but sweetest of the three Rosés 13%
Sancerre Rosé, Domaine Sautereau, Loire Valley 2007 £29.00
Altogether more serious this is a pure Pinot Noir – the grape of red Burgundy but here on the upper Loire David Sautereau leaves it less time on the skins to avoid extracting the colour. The result is a wine with all the character of light young Red Burgundy – soft fruit – cherry and roses on the nose and a lovely crisp finish. We serve it cool but it warms delightfully in the glass.12.5%
Sauternes
100ml 350ml
Ch Laville Sauternes 2005 (Half bottle) £11.00 £33.00
Jean-Christophe Barbe’s delightful Sauternes, fresh and clean with a good intensity on the nose, rich, balanced and long on the palette.
750ml
Chateau Lafaurie-Peyraguey 1998 £60.00
This is one of the greatest Sauternes: the estate was already centuries old when it was recognized as a Premier Cru in 1855. Today the cépage is 90% Sémillon, Sauvignon 8% and Muscatelle 2%; the pickers go through the vineyard up to 7 times to select grapes from the 40 year old vines that have been affected by the noble rot that concentrates the juice to get the remarkable levels of sugar. After cool fermentation it gets about 30% new oak. The result is a glorious way to end a meal – the intense sweetness is balanced by a crisp acidity and the characteristic marmalade tones of the region. It is also a specific with foie gras.
Red Wines
175ml 750ml1. l’Église Grenache Merlot 2007 £3.20 £13.60
We are also very pleased with our house red: a clean fresh modern wine. Made by New Zealander Alana McGettigan in the Languedoc, it combines Grenache, which is found across southern France, with Merlot – an important component of claret, especially on the Right Bank in Saint-Émilion and Pomerol.
2. Sequiot La Font de la Figuera DO 2007 £4.70 £18.50
This Tempranillo-Cabernet Sauvignon blend is made near Valencia by Alberto Antonini from low trained vines, 400-700 metres above sea level. This altitude takes the edge off the heat and produces intensely coloured wine with attractive perfumes, fleshy fruit and considerably more depth than is usually found at this price from Spain. Unoaked, the 2006 vintage is chunky and ripe – the Cabernet adding an opulence and structure to the spicy red fruit character of the Tempranillo. 14.5%
3. Alpha Zeta ‘V’ Valpolicella 2007 £5.00 £19.90
Another triumph from Matt Thompson’s work in the Veneto in northern Italy. This has nothing but the name in common with the valpolistrippa you may have learned to avoid. It has a lovely fruity nose, lively damsony flavours and shows all the influence of modern clean fruit-driven winemaking supported by a good crisp structure. 12.5%
4. Domaine Les Tours de Montmelas 2007 £5.30 £22.50
This estate claims one of the oldest castles in the area – it was already centuries old when the present family started making wine 400 years ago. As usual in Beaujolais, the Gamay grape makes a lovely fragrant fruit-driven wine. This one has a touch more structure than usual. 12%
5. Altos Las Hormigas Mendoza Malbec 2008 £6.80 £27.00
Malbec, the grape we used to know as the basis of Cahors in southern France has made a real mark as a modern discovery in Argentina where its robust structure and acidity adapt well to the arid conditions. Unfortunately we were a bit slow: this vineyard was planted 70 years before it was bought by two Italians, Alberto Antonini and Antonio Morescalchi in 1995. The combination of modern winemaking and high quality fruit produces a wine with an interesting fruity nose, a full rich taste and hints of chocolate on the finish. 14.6%
6.Château La Tour de Beraud, Costières de Nîmes 2007 £22.60
30 years ago, Nîmes was well known for its aqueduct but not the quality of its wine. Francois Collard is one of those who has altered opinions with this blend of Grenache, Syrah and Carignan, it has vibrant fruit, a spicy, peppery nose, supple fruit on the palate with decent structure. We think it is exceptional value and good with any meat dishes. 14%
7. A Mano Primitivo di Puglia, Amano 2007 £24.40
The far south of Italy is another area whose wine used to be noted for strength more than style. Mark Shannon and his partner Elvezia Sbalchiero have succeeded in making Primitivo one of Italy’s most talked about grape varieties. By paying high prices for the best grapes (from 70 to 100 year old vines) and focussing solely on quality and a modern style, they have revolutionised the style and quality of Primitivo. 13.5%
8. Les Terrasses Chateau Pesquie 2006 £22.00
This well made modern wine from the Côtes du Ventoux just east of Avignon has made friends all over the place. It offers a nose full of the perfumes of Provence followed by a rich quite structured taste. The fruit is well supported. 14%
9. Willunga 100 Cabernet Shiraz, McLaren Vale, 2005 £22.00
100 refers to the age of the winery; fortunately the wine-making is bang up to date. 2005 was an even more arid vintage than usual, producing wine of enormous intensity and length. The blackcurrant and eucalypts are the hallmark of young Australian Cabernet, the blackberry and liquorice come from the Shiraz. Nick Hazelgrove and Warren Randall have made a classy balanced red wine. 14.%
10.Checkerspot Cabernet Sauvignon–Syrah 2004 £23.00
Named after a now rare Californian butterfly, this is a well made blend of these popular varietals grown in the Sonoma Valley. Note the fine fruity nose, the length on the palate and the rich fruit. A good choice with most meat dishes. 14.5%
11.Chateau Mahon-Laville Jean-Christophe Barbe 2006 £24.00
70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, this is a lovely young Bordeaux from the Graves. The techniques used are more common in much more expensive clarets – and here produce ripe fruit in wine with good colour, a classic plummy nose and the region’s characteristic sort of grip on the finish. This is well-made wine that reminds us that non-classic areas have to work hard to keep up. 13%
12.Pinotage, Fairview, Paarl 2007 £25.00
Those who think South African wines are arriviste should note this vineyard was founded in 1699. Pinotage was created at Stellenbosch University in 1925 when A J Perold crossed Pinot Noir with Cinsault (known locally as Hermitage). Fairview is a modern sophisticated undertaking where Charles Back makes a broad range of wines. Expect a ripe spicy aromatic nose, an intense rich palate with good structure and a long finish.14.5%
13. La Roubine Sablet 2005 £26.00
This is the slightly more structured and intense partner of La Terrasse. We think it is marvellous, but if you like your Côtes du Rhône Villages a bit softer and less tannic, stick to La Terrasse. Try decanting.
14. Bodega Mustiguillo, Mestizaje Utiel Requena 2006 £34.00
This is a blend of 50% Bobal with a mix of Garnacha, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Tempranillo from Valencia. A lovely nose, rich and long on the palate. Look for hints of cardamom and bacon-fat. 14.5%
15. Izadi Crianza 2004 £27.00
This is classy young Rioja made from a new winery built at Villabuena in 1987. Lalo Anton says: ‘the whole concept of Izadi really started around wanting to produce wine to satisfy the needs of our friends over a meal. Flexibility is the key – we follow a style but conditions change with each vintage. Order, flexibility and cleanliness are the keys for us to produce modern, international wines that are true to their roots and a natural expression of the area’. Look for the characteristic vanilla oak flavours and the Tempranillo varietal characters.
16. Omrah Pinot Noir 2007 £27.00
Much Pinot from the New World is still heavy, fat and lacking in acid. Omrah comes from the cool climate Mount Barker in the far south of West Australia. It is light, ruby colour, with a complex soft fruit nose. You would not be likely to take it for Burgundy – the ripe fruit on the palate, like the soft tannins and rich fruit characteristics offer a different pleasure. But it is a clean lively well-made wine with pleasant vanilla tones from the 20% new oak which will go happily with almost anything on the menu. The name was taken from the SS Omrah which used to sail from Perth down to Albany. 14%
17.Chateau Manoir du Gravoux Cotes de Castillon 2006 £28.00
When we used to visit our grandmother in the Dordogne in the 1980s, most of the local Castillon wines were hard, tannic and often showed signs of dirty old oak. They seemed to have made little progress since 17 July 1453 when John Talbot Earl of Shrewsbury fell at the Battle of Castillon and England lost its French Possessions. This lovely young Bordeaux blend shows the progress they have made. A real pleasure with good structure and fruit.
18. Fattoria Selvapiana Chianti Rufina 2006 £33.80
Classy Chianti from one of the most famous houses in Tuscany. The Giuntini family have owned this estate since 1827 and if you like the characteristic structured tang of Sangiovese, this is highly recommended. Look for the cherry and strawberry flavours securely held together by the structured crispness of the acids and tannins. 13.5%
19. Jean-Claude Boisset Bourgogne 2006 £31.00
Well-made stylish red Burgundy from an accomplished viniculteur, Grégory Patriat. 13%.
20. Seghesio Sonoma County Zinfandel 2006 £35.00
The Seghesio family’s grandparents started making Zin in California in 1895. The cooler temperatures of this vintage emphasise the varietal character; the brambly nose is followed by juicy acids with crisp grape tannins. The emphatic hints of blueberry and cherry with the long finish emphasise that this is high quality wine making. However it is heady stuff – 16%
21. Coudoulet de Beaucastel 2004 £35.00
This is the Côtes du Rhône made by the Perrin family who have consistently made one of the most highly regarded Chateauneuf du Pape of the last 30 years. This wine shows the lovely thyme and oregano bouquet characteristic of the area, with rich fruit supported by a crisp structure of acids and tannin. 14%
22. Saint Joseph Le Grand Pompée, Paul Jaboulet Aine 2005 £39.00
Well-made Syrah from one of the most famous names in the Northern Rhone in a fine vintage here as it was in most of France. Look for the characteristic smell of bacon fat, the fine crisp tannins on the attack and the long smooth finish. 13%. Decant
23. Savigny-lès-Beaune Domaine Jean Guiton 2004 £39.00
Elegant and well-structured with characteristic ’04 minerality. A delicious mouthful, now at its peak, this is the fifth vintage made by Jean’s son, Guillaume who is increasingly applying biodynamic principles to this family domaine.
24. Beaune 1er Cru Sizies Domaine Jean Guiton 2004 £39.00
Long floral red fruit flavours and complex palate makes this a bargain premier cru from a fine family estate in the heart of the Cote de Beaune.
25. Givry Les Village de Jaffelin 2005 £40.00
Lovely red Burgundy from a high quality source in an exceptional year. 13%
26. Segla 2000 £49.50
This is the second wine of the renowned Rausan Segla, the Margaux Deuxième Cru. This was a fine vintage and it is now drinking well. Proper claret from a village rightly noted for the perfumed quality of its wine. 13% Decant.
27. Nuits St Georges Aurelien Verdet 2004 £55.00
Delicious high quality village Burgundy from a young biodynamique grower. Note the soft fruit nose, the structured flavours and the length of the finish. Drinking beautifully at the moment.13%
28. Volnay ‘Les Petits Poisots’ Domaine Jean Guiton 2004 £55.00
Intense plummy fruit and excellent balance, in a more powerful frame than the first two wines from this excellent domaine. Decant
29. Pommard Domaine Jean Guiton 2002 £55.00
A complex earthy aroma which is the hallmark of good Pommard gives way to a rich mid palate of red and black soft fruits and the character “peacock’s tail” finish – a touch of fire as you swallow. This is an exceptional vintage now reaching its peak.
30. Barolo Massolino 2004 £58.00
The Massolino family have owned this estate since 1894 and like many of their neighbours they excelled themselves in 2004. This is beautiful wine which is just coming into its own. Look for the cherry soft fruit character of the Nebbiolo variety; note the structure and length on the palate. This is serious stuff. 14% Decant.
31. Chambolle Musigny Jean-Claude Boisset 2006 £60.00
Another wine made by Grégory Patriat which has attracted lot of attention. A good dark colour for a young Burgundy, look for the opulent soft fruit and farmyard nose, the rich fruity wine supported by a good structure and finishing with the hallmark peacock’s tail. This is village Burgundy of high quality. This wine won Gold and Trophy Medals at the International Wine Challenge 2008. 13.5% Decant
32. Nuits St Georges Domaine Gouges 2004 £60.00
Generally regarded as the best producers of Nuits, the Gouges family produce a traditional, long-lived wine. Winemaker Christian is particularly proud of his ‘04s, which he regards as more classic than the legendary ‘05s. This example is now just beginning its long drinking career – we will be pleased to decant it for you so that the tannins can soften in the glass. This concentrated wine was extremely fruity en primeur and is now showing the characteristic meaty flavour of this village. Decant.
33. Amarone della Valpolicella Classico, Allegrini 2004 £78.00
Extraordinary wine. These grapes are dried for 100 days after picking, during which they lose 45% of their weight. After fermenting it spent 18 months in new oak. The resulting wine is enormously concentrated, but it is also well balanced and shows the clean modern wine making we look for in all our wines. The high quality acidity means that it carries its 15.2% alcohol in a way that New World wines built for the critical palate often do not. 15% Decant.
34. Vosne-Romanée Domaine Mugneret-Gibourg 2002 £80.00
This village produces what most commentators regard as the finest Pinot Noir in the world. Madame Jacqueline Mugneret and her daughters Marie-Andrée and Marie-Christine make some of the best wines in the village. Their wines are elegant and feminine, and this example shows the characteristic rose-petal bouquet for which the village is famous. We would decant.