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The telegraph travel section

“Toby Leigh, the ambitious young chef at Age & Sons in Ramsgate, says this wild, coastal landscape is unrivalled in Britain for its fine produce: “Kent has always been good for fish, because of the Channel – and for its exceptional oysters. The lamb is phenomenal… and this is one of the best foraging regions in Europe, not just for ceps but for rosehips, berries, seaweed and sea beet, which grows by the sea among wild rocket and has a wonderful flavour.”

Age & Sons, Ramsgate (01843 851515, reserve@ageandsons.co.uk)
Add a Royal Harbour, views of France and a sandy beach, and Ramsgate deserves this three-storey building with a basement bar, a ground-floor café and finer dining upstairs. The menu is seasonal and visceral, using cheap cuts such as ox heart (devilled on toast as a starter, £4), pig’s head (in a terrine, £4) and pork belly (with mashed potato and quince chutney served as a main course, £10).